Quick safety
Water off before you start. Electrical: none here — this guide is water-only. If anything leaks after assembly, shut off and re-check connections (see troubleshooting below).
- Time: ~20 min
- T-valve (in the box)
- Hoses (in the box)
- Wrench or pliers — your drawer
- Teflon tape — 50¢ at any hardware store
- Towel + bowl — for drips
What you're looking at
A bidet attachment is an under-seat plate with nozzles. Study the part names once — the guide refers to them from here on.
- 1
Nozzles
The business end. They extend for the wash, rinse themselves, and retract.
- 2
Control dial
The volume control for your spray. Start gentle and dial up from there.
- 3
T-valve / adapter
A little brass splitter: water comes in from the wall and picks a lane — tank or bidet.
- 4
Braided water supply hose
Shuttles water from the T-valve up to the attachment. Steel-braided and tougher than it looks.
- 5
Mounting bracket / plate
Slides in under your seat and holds everything steady.
- 6
Fill valve connection
Where your toilet's tank already gets its water. The bidet just shares the supply — the tank never notices.
The install, step by step.
Each step has its own "Watch this step" button. No autoplay — play only what you need.
Gather your gear
~3 minUnpack everything: the attachment plate, T-valve, water supply hose, and any washers. Get your adjustable wrench, Teflon tape, a towel, and a small bowl for drips.
Pip's tip: lay everything out first. Finding the washers now beats finding them at 9 p.m. under the vanity.
Shut off the water
~3 minFind the shut-off valve behind your toilet (usually rear-left at the wall) and turn it clockwise — righty-tighty. Then flush the toilet to drain the tank. A little residual water remains; that's what the towel is for.
Pip's tip: if the valve won't budge, steady pressure — not rage. It's older than your confidence.
Remove the toilet seat
~4 minFlip up the bolt caps at the back of the seat, unscrew the nuts underneath, and lift the seat off. Set it aside — it goes back on over the attachment.
Pip's tip: corroded plastic nuts can snap. If one cracks, replace the set — they're a couple of dollars at any hardware store.
Drop in the attachment
~5 minSlide the bidet plate onto the seat bolts so it rests on the bowl rim under the seat. Set the seat back on top and thread the nuts back on — hand-tight, then a firm quarter-turn. Do a quick sit-test before fully tightening; comfort now, dignity later.
Pip's tip: the plate center notch should leave the nozzle line centered under you. Adjust before you go gorilla-tight.
Add the T-valve
~5 minPlace the towel under the valve. Disconnect your existing supply line from the bottom of the fill valve — have the bowl ready for the drip. Wrap 3–4 turns of Teflon tape on the fill valve threads (clockwise, facing the thread), then thread the T-valve on: hand-tight, then a quarter-turn with the wrench. Reconnect the toilet's supply line to the T-valve's top outlet, and run the bidet's supply hose from the T-valve's side outlet to the attachment.
Pip's tip: snug, not herculean. Over-tightening is how plastic threads die.
Test it and celebrate
~3 minTurn the water back on slowly and check every connection for drips — T-valve, fill valve, hose ends. Point the spray into the bowl (not at precious electronics) and ease the dial up from gentle. Congrats: you now have a bidet.
Pip's tip: your first seat-hotwash should be comedy-free: sneaking up on the pressure dial beats getting baptized on cold.
Troubleshooting
A connection is dripping.
Shut the water off, back that connection off, re-check the washer placement and Teflon tape, and re-thread gently. 90% of drips are cross-threaded or washer-seat issues.
The spray pressure is weak.
Make sure the shut-off is fully open and the dial is turned up. Then check the hose for kinks and the nozzle screen for sediment — a quick rinse usually fixes it.
The seat rocks after install.
The plate has to sit flat under the seat. Loosen the nuts, re-seat the plate centered and flat, and re-tighten evenly.
Water is leaking at the fill valve after I screw on the T-valve.
The existing washer in the tank connection stack may have shrunken with age — pull it, take it to the hardware store, and match it. Always turn water off first.